The combination of peas and artichokes is not common in first courses: there are many There are few recipes for pasta with peas and artichokes.. And almost all of them are white, without tomato. An absence that denotes the ancient roots of these condiments, given that the tomato began to spread in the first half of the 19th century.
Furthermore, these are pastas always enriched with fatty sautés and the addition of aromas. Among the traditional recipes of Rome, for example, there is even a white beef ragout with peas and artichokes. Or better there wasbecause nowadays it is difficult to find even someone who has heard of this ragù, once highly appreciated.
However, all of the above goes to say that, although rarely, we see pasta dishes with peas and artichokes in spring. Here and there, but always blank.
The red sauces, with tomato, dedicated to pasta with peas and artichokes, are decidedly strange.. No more than a couple, as far as we know, in addition to the recipe we propose, traditional from Piedmont.
It’s about a recipe with dry and austere flavor, more or less how the men and things of Piedmont were described in the 19th century. Which also comes from one of the once poorest areas of the region: the current province of Verbanio-Cusio-Ossola. Where the expression “a piece of flat land for cultivation” meant at most a few hundred meters to the banks of the valley bottom streams. Otherwise only mountains, up to 4,600 or so meters of Monte Rosa.
A truly essential recipe, without sautéing or aromas, based entirely on the combination and comparison between peas and artichokes. But also very good, thanks to perfect balance between the herbaceous sweetness of peas and the complex, bitter flavor of artichokes. Nothing to add or remove. Although, the truth is, compared to our version, traditional recipes called for a little less tomato and a little more pecorino cheese (which, however, already seems abundant to us).
The pasta to use is short.. The ones that were once recommended were “gobbi”: dried pasta similar to curved tortiglioni, almost identical to today’s pipes. It is a type of pasta in danger of extinction, difficult to find, but perfectly replaceable with pipes, by the way, but also with the half sleeves, the castellanas and the shells that we use and that you see in the photo. But always striped varieties, to maximize a condiment that is not too fluid or too greasy.
- 360 g short pasta such as pipe rigate, conchiglie and similar
- 2 artichokes
- 250 g fresh shelled or frozen peas
- 80 g grated pecorino cheese
- tomato concentrate
- Pepper
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Clean the artichokes by cutting the tips and removing all the leathery leaves. Remove the toughest parts of the stems, then peel the remaining stems, keeping the pith tender. Finally, cut both the flowers and the stems into slices.
- Heat 4 tablespoons of oil in a large frying pan, add the artichokes and fry them over moderate heat, covered, stirring several times. After about ten minutes, pour half a glass of boiling water in which you have dissolved a generous tablespoon of tomato paste. Season with salt (without exaggerating, it will add a lot of pecorino!), mix well and let season for another 20 minutes. [Attenzione! Sul tempo di cottura dei carciofi regolatevi in base alla qualità dei piselli. Per esempio, se usate pisellini surgelati , che devono cuocere 8-10 minuti, prolungate la cottura dei carciofi. L’importante è che alla fine, tra la cottura autonoma, più la cottura con i piselli, i carciofi risultino proprio morbidissimi]
- Add the peas and continue cooking until both vegetables are cooked through: they should not be al dente. Then use a fork to mash half the artichokes and peas until pulpy. At this point, if necessary, increase the heat for a few minutes and remove the lid, so that the seasoning thickens properly.
- Drain the pasta al dente, pour it into the pan and sauté it for a minute in the sauce. If necessary, add a few tablespoons of the pasta cooking water. Finally, turn off the heat, season with a generous grind of pepper and sprinkle with pecorino cheese. Mix well before serving the pasta with peas and artichokes immediately, very hot.